Industrial Garments Washing & Dyeing

GARMENT WASHING

The technology which is used to modify the appearance, out look comfort ability & fashion of the garments is called garment washing.

WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF WASHING / BEST WASH LOOK

Purpose of washing/Best wash look is the best touch of a garment - This may be explained in the following way:-

Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. After washing the garments create a new looks which seems the new touch of fashion.

By the washing technique, fadded/old look, colour or tinted affect is created in the garment which also seems the best touch of garments.

Washing technique create new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, Blasting, whiskering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, p.p spray, hand crapping, p.pspoonzing etc. Which is also seems the best touch of garments.

·        The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a result the garment become size free and become soft hand feel.

When these soft garments are touched then it seems to best touch of garments.

•To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and market developments.

•Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further shrinkage of wash garments.

•Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also removed due to washing.

Requirements of garments washing

v It should be removed size materials from the garments . Hence feels soft during use.

v It should be removed any dust, dirt, spot, impurities or germ which is present or added in garments during manufacturing.

v It should be shrinkage occurred i.e. no possibility of further shrinkage of wash garments due to washing.

v It should be attracted the customers or buyer by using different types of fashionable washing and market developments.

v It should be produced similar or different outlook in the garments by different washing techniques.

v It should be created wash look appearance in the garments. After washing the garments create a new looks which seems the new touch of fashion.

v It should be created color or tinted affect in the garments which also seems the best touch of the garments.

v It should be created faded affect in the garments.

v It should be possible to wearing directly the garments after purchasing from the shop.

v Should be used new/ modern/ latest machines.

v It should also be produced fading affect in the specific area of the garment as per specific design.

v It should be comparatively more profitable than others.

Effects of garments washing

1. Change the appearance of the garments.

2. Change in size.

3. Change in color.

4. Change out look of the garments.

5. Change in comfort.

6. Change in design.

7. Change in fashion, etc.

   TYPES OF WET  AND  DRY  PROCESS

•Normal wash / Garments wash/ Rinse wash.

•Pigment wash.

•Caustic wash.

•Silicon wash.

•Stone wash.

•Enzyme wash.

•Stone Enzyme wash.

•Acid wash.

•Bleach wash.

•Tinting & over dyeing.

•Sand Blasting.

•Hands scraping.

•over all wrinkles.

•Permanent wrinkle.

•Grinding & Destroy.

•Broken & Tagging.

•P P Spray & P P Sponging etc.

    NORMAL WASH / GARMENTS WASH

Normal wash is required for the following reasons:-

•To remove dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities from the garments.

•To remove size materials from the garments.

•To remove starch presents on the garment fabrics.

•For soft feeling to wear the garments after purchasing.

•To achieve buyer washing standard.

WASHING PROCESS OF NORMAL / GARMENT WASH

•The Normal/Garment washing process of batch of 70 kg Twill/Canvas Garments are described below:-

First Step :-

•Lot size: -....................... 70 kg Twill/Canvas Garment.

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 8-10 ............560 -- 700 Litre.

•Machine Running.

•Add detergent @ 0.5 gm / litre ............ 280-350 gm.

•Temperature..... Sometime cold & sometime 40°c to 60°c.

•Time .............................. 5 to 10 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Cold wash.

Second Step :-

•Add water @ L : R = 1: 6 ......... 420 litre.

•Washing machine running

•Add Flax softner @ 0.6 gm / litre .......... 252 gm.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.5 gm / litre........... 210 gm.

•Time................................... 5 to 10 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Unload the Garments on trolley.
Third Step :-

Hydro extractor machine.

•Hydrocxtraction the garment to remove excess water from the Garment.

•Fourth Step :-

Steam Dryer / Gas Dryer.

•Load on steam dryer - 50 kg

•Temperature - 60°c - 70°c

•Time - 40 - 50 mts for dry.

•Time - 10 - 15 mts for cold dry.

or

•Load on gas dryer - 50 kg,

•Running the machine

•Temperature: - 70°c - 85°c.

•Time: - 30 - 35 mts for dry.

•Time: - 10 - 15 mts for cold dry.

Fifth Step:-

•After drying it will be quality checking and good quality Garments will be delivery to Garments factory.

•NOTE: - Flax softner (cationic or nonionic) diluted with hot water then use in the

Machine.

PIGMENT WASH

•Pigment wash generally doing on pigment dyed or printed Garments by pigment washing technique.

•Pigment wash is required for the following reasons:- To fading affect/old looking affect on Garment and also seam area. For soft feeling to wear the garment after purchasing.To achieve the buyer washing standard.To increase the colourfastness & rubbing fastness.

WASHING PROCESS OF PIGMENT WASH

The pigment washing process of batch of 80 kg Twill/canvas Garments are described below:-

First Step :

•Lot size: - ...................... 80 kg Twill/Canvas Garment.

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 640 Litre

•Machine Running.

•Add Caustic soda (NAOH)..... @ 0.8 gm / liter ............ 512 gm.

•Add Soda Ash (Na2Co3) ........@ 1.50 gm / litre........... 960 gm.

•Add Detergent ........................ @ 0.8 gm / litre ............ 512 gm.

•Temperature........... 50°c to 60°c.

•Time (Depend upon the shade) ....... 20 to 60 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Wash 1 time by hot wash for 5 mts at the temperature 50°c.

•Wash 1 time by cold water for 5 mts

Second Step :

•Add water @ L : R = 1: 6 ......... 480 litre.

•Washing machine running

•Add Acetic Acid (for pH 4.5 - 5.5) @ 0.5 gm / litre ............. 240 gm.

•Add Flax softner ...                           . @ 0.6 gm / liter........... 288 gm.

•For more slippery hand feel use silicon - @ 0.4 gm / litre.....192gm.

•Time................................... 15 to 25 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Unload the Garments on trolley.

Third Step :-

Hydro extractor machine.

•Hydrocxtraction the garment to remove excess water from the Garment. Time

required about 2 - 4 minutes.

Fourth Step :- Steam Dryer / Gas Dryer.

•Load on steam dryer - 50 kg

•Running the machine

•Temperature - 60°c - 70°c

•Time - 40 - 50 mts for dry.

•Time - 10 - 15 mts for cold dry.

or

•Load on gas dryer - 50 kg,

•Running the machine

•Temperature: - 70°c - 85°c for dry.

•Time: - 30 - 35 mts for dry.

•Time: - 10 - 15 mts for cold dry.

Fifth Step :

•After drying garments go to quality section and check the garment, good quality

garment will be delivery and Deep shade again rewash, other quality Garment rectify then delivery.

    CHEMICAL USED IN PIGMENT WASHING AND THEIR FUNCTION

•CAUSTIC SODA (NaoH) :

1. Caustic created the role in bleach technique without colour change the garments. Caustic has a cleaning power which is more powerful then soda Ash. fading affect/old looking affect come rapidly on garments.

•SODA ASH (Na2Co3) :-

Soda ash created alkaline medium for the breakdown of pigment dye. It has also a cleaning power. It has also help color fading affect of garments.

•Detergent:-

Here detergent is used to remove impurities from the Garment fabric surfaces

and temperature helps detergent to enhance its action. Detergent removes the

impurities from the garments fabric surface. During coming these impurities,some pigment will be washed out from the pigment dyed or printed area of the garments. As a result fading affect will be developed.

•Acidic Acid (CH3COOH) :-

Acidic Acid is used to neutralize the garment from alkaline condition and to control the pH value in wash bath.

•Flax Softner (Cationic, nonionic) :-

Softener is used to make the garments treated textiles is surface feel that is bath sickly and soft and also provides excellent lubricating properties.

CAUSTIC WASH

•Caustic wash generally doing on Reactive dye, Sulpher dye, Direct dyed or printed Garments. Caustic wash is required for the following reasons:-

•To fadding/old looking affect on Garment and seam abrasion affection seam area.

•To remove the size materials, starch from the garments.

•To increase the colour fastness & rubbing fastness.

•For soft feeling to wear the garments.

•To increase the hairiness on garments.

•To achieve the buyer reference sample.

WASHING PROCESS OF CAUSTIC WASH

The caustic washing processes of batch of 80 kg twill/canvas garments are described below:-

First Step :-

•Lot size: - ...................... 80 kg.

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8.............. 640 Litre

•Machine Running.

•Add Caustic soda (NAOH)..... @ 1.60 gm / litre........ 1024 gm.

•Add Detergent ........................ @ 0.8 gm / litre ............ 512 gm.

•Temperature........... 50°c to 60°c.

•Time (Depend upon the shade) ....... 20 to 60 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Wash cold water  for 3 mts.

Second Step :- Neutral Wash

•Add water @ L : R = 1: 5 ...................... 400 litre.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 1 gm / litr e ............. 400 gm.

•Time .......................................................... 5 mts.

Here acetic acid is used to neutralize the garments from alkaline medium.

Third Step  :-

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 6 .............. 480 Litre

•Machine Running.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.5 gm / litre ............ 240 gm.

•Add Flax softner @ 0.6 gm / litre...........  288 gm.

•If mor e soft use silicon @ 0.4 gm / litre ... 192 gm.

•Time................................ 10 to 20 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Unload the garments on trolley.

Fourth Step :-

Hydro extractor machine.Hydro extraction the garment to remove excess water from the Garment. Timerequired about 2 - 4 minutes.

Fifth Step :-

Steam Dryer / Gas Dryer.

•Load on steam dryer - 50 kg

•Running the machine

•Temperature - 60°c - 70°c

•Time - 40 - 50 mts for dry.

•Time - 10 - 15 mts for cold dry.

or

•Load on gas dryer - 50 kg,

•Running the machine

•Temperature: - 70°c - 85°c for dry.

•Time: - 30 - 35 mts for dry.

•Time: - 10 - 15 mts for cold dry.

Sixth Step :-

•After drying garments go to quality section and check the garment, good quality garment will be delivery and Deep shade again rewash, other quality Garment rectify then delivery.

CHEMICAL USED IN CAUSTIC WASH AND THEIR FUNCTION

CAUSTIC SODA (NaoH) :

•Caustic created the role in bleach technique with color change the garments.

•Caustic has powerful cleaning power.

•Fadding affect/old looking affect come rapidly on garments.

DETERGENT :

•Here detergent is used to remove impurities from the garments fabric surfaces and temperature helps detergent to enhance its action. During coming these impurities, some color will be washed out from the colored fabric garments. As a result fading affect will be developed.

 

        Washing equipment                                               washer

    

 Tumble Drying processCuring Ov

ENZYME WASH                                

•Enzymes are bio chemical substances that behave as catalysts toward specific reactions. What makes very interesting the enzymes under a chemical point of view is their high specificity or in other words, their ability to attack selectively a given substrate.

•Among the two traditional enzymes used in the treatments ofdenim garments (amylase to hydrolyze starches and cellulose to degrade in different way's cotton's cellulose) there is another enzyme that can be employed to attack selectively the molecule that constitutes the blue indigo color resulting ineffective on other kind of dyes.

•The action of enzyme during enzyme wash, it hydrolysis the cellulose, at first it attacks the having projecting fiber and hydrolyzed them. Them it attacks the yarn portion inside fabric and partly hydrolyzed the yarn portion and fadded affect is produced.

•Mainly two types of enzyme used in Bangladesh. One is Acid Enzyme (liquid) and another is Neutral Enzyme. Neutral Enzyme is twotypes - a) Powder form b) Liquid form i.e, SL Enzyme.

ACID ENZYME

•Acid enzyme colour is slightly brown.

•pH range is 4.5 to 5.5

•Temperature - 40°c - 55°c.

•Time required 25 mts to 50 mts.

•Enzyme affects come within short time.

•Staining/Bleeding occurs more in garments.

•Production high.

NEUTRAL ENZYME

–Enzyme is slightly white powder form.

–pH range is 6 to 7.

–Temperature - 40°c - 60°c.

–Time required 40 to 70 mts.

–Enzyme affects come slowly.

–Less staining/bleeding on garments.

–With pumic stone comes good affect/abrasion on garments.

–In dark shade enzyme affect comes good.

SL ENZYME

•SL enzyme is liquid form.

•pH range is 6 to 7.

•Time required 45 to 80 mts.

•Enzyme affects come slowly.

•Less staining/bleeding on garments.

•With pumic stone come better affect.

•In dark shade enzyme affect comes good.

  ENZYME WASH

•Enzyme wash is required for the following reasons:-

•To remove the size materials from the garments.

•To remove the starch presents on the garments fabrics.

•To achieve the high low abrasion (stone affect) on garment and seam abrasion in sewing area.

•Enzyme attack as chemically not mechanically for this reason low

damage/wastage then stone wash.

•For soft feeling to wear the garment.

•To achieve the buyer reference sample.

•To increase the colour fastness & rubbing fastness.

•Especially develop the "Bio-Polishing" affect of cotton/denim.

•Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.

•Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth surface.

ENZYME WASH PROCESS

•The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kgs denim men's long pants Trouser) are described below:-

First Step :- DESIZING

•Lot weight (80 pes) ............ 60 kg denim long pant.

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 9 .............. 540 Litre

•Machine Running.

•Temperature.......................... 60°c.

•Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 324 gm.

•Add Detergent @ 0.8 gm / litre.................... 432 gm.

•Time...............................10-- 20 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Wash 1 time by cold water.

Second Step :- ENZYME

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. 450 Litre

•Temperature.......................... 45°c.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ................... 270 gm.

•Add Anti back staining @ 0.6 gm / litre........ 270 gm.

•Add Acid Enzyme @ 2.00 gm / litre ................ 900 gm.

•Time .............. (Depend upon the shade )...40-- 60 mts.

•Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute (enzyme killing).

•Drain the bath.

•Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

•Third Step :- SOFTENING

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 ..................... 450 Litre.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 270 gm.

•Cationic Softner @ 1 gm / litre.............. 450 gm.

•Temperature................................... Cold.

•Time ................................................ 15 to 20 mts.

•Drain the bath.

•Then unload the garments on trolley.

FourhtStep :-Hydroextractor Machine

•After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydroextractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Fifth Step :- Drying Machine

–Load 60 kg garments to gas dryer.

–Temperature set - 75°c to 85°c.

–Run about 40 mts.

–After then run 10 mts in cold dryer.

Sixth Step :-

•After dryer, garment goes to quality section for quality checking and good one

delivery.

ENZYME WASH PROCESS(MEDIUM SHADE)

•The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kgs denim men's long pant (Trouser) is described below:-

First Step :-DESIZING

•Lot weight (80 pes) ............ 60 kg denim long pant.

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 Litre

•Machine Running.

•Temperature.......................... 60°c.

•Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 324 gm.

•Add Detergent @ 0.8 gm / litre.................... 432 gm.

•Time................................ 20 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Wash 1 time by cold water.

Second Step :-ENZYME

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 450 Litre

•Temperature.......................... 45°c.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ................ 270 gm.

•Add Anti Back staining @ 0.6 gm / litre .... 270 gm.

•Add Acid Enzyme @ 2.00 gm / litre ............ 900 gm.

•Time....(Depend upon the shade)...........40--- 60 mts.

•Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute (enzyme killing).

•Drain the bath.

•Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

Third Step :-

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 7 .............. 420 Litre

•Temperature......................................50-- 60°c.

•Add chlorine bleach (k.c.i) @ 10 gm / litre ...... 4200 gm.

•Add soda ash @ 2 gm / litre ................................. 840 gm.

•Time (Depend upon the shade).................... 12 to 15 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

Fourth Step :-

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 10 .............. 600 Litre

•Temperature........................................40-- 50°c.

•Add sodium hypo sulphite @ 2 gm / litre ... 1200 gm.

•Add detergent @ 0.5 gm / litre ...................... 300 gm.

•Time................................ 10 to 15 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

Fifth Step :- SOFTENING

•Add water @ L: R = 1 : 8 .............. 450 Litres.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 270 gm.

•Cationic Softner @ 1 gm / litre.............. 450 gm.

•Temperature.......................... Cold.

•Time................................ 15 to 20 mts.

•Drain the bath.

•Then unload the garments on trolley.

Sixth Step :-Hydroextractor Machine

•After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydro extractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Seven Step :- Drying Machine

–Load 60 kg garments to gas dryer.

–Temperature set - 75°c to 85°c.

–Run about 40 mts.

–After then run 10 mts in cold dryer.

Eighth Step :After dryer garment go to quality section for quality checking and good one delivery.

ENZYME WASH PROCESS (Light shade)

• The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kgs denim men's long pants (Trouser) are described below:-

First Step :- DESIZING

•Lot weight (80 pes) ............ 60 kg denim long pant.

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 Litre

•Machine Running.

•Temperature.......................... 60°c.

•Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 324 gm.

•Add Detergent @ 0.8 gm / litre.................... 432 gm.

•Time...............................15- 25 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Wash 1 time by cold water.

Second Step :- ENZYME

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. 450 Litre

•Temperature.......................... 45°c.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre.............. 270 gm.

•Add Anti back staining @ 0.6 gm / litre  ... 270 gm.

•Add Acid Enzyme @ 2.00 gm / litre .......... 900 gm.

•Time....... (Depend upon the shade)......40--- 60 mts.

•Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute (enzyme killing).

•Drain the bath.

•Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes

Third Step :-

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 7 .............. 420 Litre

•Temperature.......................... 50°c to 60°c.

•Add chlorine bleach (k.c.i) @ 20 gm / litre ......... 8400 gm.

•Add sodium bi carbonate @ 4 gm / litre ............ 1680 gm.

•Time (Depend upon the shade)............................. 12 to 20 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

Fourth Step :-

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 10 ........................... 600 Liter

•Temperature.................................................... 50°c.

•Add sodium hypo sulphite @ 2 gm / litre.....1200 gm.

•Add detergent @ 0.5 gm / litre ...................... 300 gm.

•Time................................ 10 to 15 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

Fifth Step :-

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 8........................... 480 Liter

•Temperature.......................... 60°c.

•Add hydrogen peroxide @ 4 gm / litre.... 1920 gm.

•Add caustic soda @ 1 gm / litre................. 480 gm.

•Add detergent @ 1 gm / litre ..................... 480 gm.

•Time................................ 10 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

Sixth Step :- SOFTENING

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. 450 Litres.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 270 gm.

•Cationic Softner @ 1 gm / litre.............. 450 gm.

•Temperature.......................... Cold.

•Time................................ 15 to 20 mts.

•Drain the bath.

•Then unload the garments on trolley

Seventh Step :-Hydroextractor Machine

•After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydro extractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Eighth Step:- Drying Machine

–Load 60 kg garments to gas dryer.

–Temperature set - 75°c to 85°c.

–Run about 40 mts.

–After then run 10 mts in cold dryer.

Ninth Step :

•After dryer garment go to quality section for quality checking and good one delivery.

ENZYME WASH PROCESS(TWILL/CANVAS/POPLIN)

•The enzyme washing process of batch of 60 kg Twill/Canvas/Poplin/Cord ray) trouser is described below:-

First Step :- DESIZING

•Lot weight (Approx 125 pes) ............ 60 kg.

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 10 .............. 600 Litre

•Machine Running.

•Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 360 gm.

•Add Detergent @ 0.5 gm / litre.................... 300 gm.

•Temperature.................................... 50°c.

•Time........................................10--- 20 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse one time 3 minutes.

Second Step :- ENZYME

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. 480 Litre

•Temperature.......................... 45°c.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.5 gm / litre ............ 240 gm.

•Add Acid Enzyme @ 1.2 gm / litre ............ 576 gm.

•Add Antistain @ 0.50 gm / litre ................ 240 gm.

•Time.. (Depend upon the standard)........ 30 to 60 mts.

•Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute.

•Drain the bath.

•Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

Third  Step :- Softing

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. 480 Litres.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre .......... 288 gm.

•Cationic Softner @ 1 gm / litre.............. 480 gm.

•Silicon (ME) @ 0.5 gm / litre................. 240 gm.

•Temperature.......................... 40°c..

•Time................................ 15 to 20 mts.

•Drain the bath.

•Then unload the garments on trolley.

Fourth Step :-Hydroextractor Machine

•After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to

hydroextractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Fifth Step :- Drying Machine

–Load 60 kg garments to gas/steam dryer.

–Temperature set - 75°c to 85°c.

–Run about 35 to 45 mts.

–After run 10 to 15 minutes for cold dryer.

Sixth Step :-

•After dryer garment go to quality section for quality checking and then delivery.

INTRODUCTION OF PUMIC STONE

Pumice Stone :-

•The pumice stone are the perforated stones, produced from volcanic explosion.

•At first these stones are soft but becomes cold, it becomes the stones with rough surface,

•Pumice stones float on water.

•Pumice stones come from Indonesia and Turkey.

•Indonesia stone color is slightly brown and Turkey stone is white color.

•Pumice stones are available in 3 size i.e. small 2-3 cm, medium 3-5 cm and large size 5-7 cm.

•Two to Three times can be used are pumice stone.

•Every bag contain 22 kg to 25 kg and price 400/= to 425/=/ bag (varies).

  THE ACT OF PUMIC STONES DURING GARMENT WASHING

•During different garments washing like stone wash, Acid wash, Stone Enzyme wash etc. Pumic stones are used to create irregular fading affect on garments.

•The pumic stones act a brushing action on the garment fabric surfaces.

•The areas where more brushing action take place, there more fading or discolor affect will be developed and the areas where less brushing action takes place, there less discolor affect will be developed.

•The multi layer fabric areas like Collar, Cuff, Pocket, Placket, Side seams etc. areas will be brushed more than the single layer areas.

•As a result irregular fadding is developed in the garments by the action of pumic stones.

STONE WASH

•A process of stone wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Long Pant as mentioned below:-

First Step :- PRE-TREATMENT / DESIZING

•Batch size....................... 60 kg Denim Long Pant.

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 9 .............. 540 litres.

•Start the machine.

•Temperature.................... 60°c

•Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre................. 324 gm.

•Add Detergent / Antistain @ 1 gm / litre ......... 540 gm.

•Time................................ 15 to 25 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

Second Step :- HOT WASH

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 litres.

•Temperature.................... 60°c.

•Time................................ 5 mts.

Third Step :- BLEACHING

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 litres.

•Machine running.

•Add bleaching powder (k.c.i) @ 10 gm/litre ...... 4800 Gms.

•Add soda ash @ 5 gm/litre .................................. 2400 Gms.

•Pumic stone @ ½ vol of garments.

•Temperature............................. 60°c.

•Time (Depend upon the shade) .......... 12 to 15 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse twice, each 3 minutes.

Fourth Step :- NEUTRAL WASH

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 9 .............. 540 litres.

•Add sodium hyposulphite @ 3 gm/litre ...... 1620 Gms.

•Temperature............................. 40°c.

•Time (Depend upon the shade) .......... 10 to 12 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse one.

Fifth Step :- SOFT WASH

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 litres.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/litre ..................... 288 Gms.

•Cationic softner @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 480 Gms.

•Time................................ 5 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Unload the garments to trolley.

Sixth Step :-Hydroextractor Machine

•Hydroextraction  the garment to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Seventh Step :- Drying Machine

–Load 40 kg garments

–Set temperature ................ 75°c to 85°c.

–Time ......................... 35 to 40 mts.

–Time ..................... 10 minutes in cold dry.

Eighth Step :-Delivery

–After quality checking garment will be delivery.

STONE ENZYME WASH

•Now in our Bangladesh maximum Denim garment is washing STONEENZYME WASH. It is most popular wash for Buyer. A process of stoneenzyme wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Long Pant as mentioned below:-

First Step :-PRE-TREATMENT / DESIZING

•Batch size....................... 60 kg Denim Long Pant.

•Add water @ L: R = 1 : 9 ............................ 540 litres.

•Start the machine.

•Temperature.................... 60°c

•Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre................. 324 gm.

•Add Detergent / Antistain @ 1 gm / litre ......... 540 gm.

•Time................................ 15 to 25 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

Second Step :-HOT WASH

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 litres.

•Temperature.................................... 60°c.

•Time................................................. 5 mts.

Third Step :-

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. 480  litres.

•Add pumic stone @ ½ vol of garments.

•Add Enzyme @ 1.50 gm/litre ..................... 720 Gms.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/litre .................. 288  Gms.

•Add Antistain @ 0.8 gm/litre .....................  384 Gms.

•Temperature.........................................  40°c  to 50°c

•Time (Depend upon the  shade) ..........  60 to 70 mts.

•Then temperature  raise to 90°c for 1 minute.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

•Then pumic stone out from washing  machine

Fourth Step :-BLEACHING

•Add water @ L: R  = 1: 8..............  480 litres.

•Machine  running.

•Add bleaching powder (k.c.i) @ 10 gm/litre ....4800  gms.

•Add soda ash @ 5 gm/litre................................  2400  gms.

•Temperature........................................................... 60°c.

•Time (Depend upon the  shade) ..................... 12 to 15 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse twice, each 3 minutes.

Fifth Step :- NEUTRAL WASH

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 9 ............................ 540 litres.

•Add sodium hyposulphite @ 3 gm/litre ....... 1620 Gms.

•Temperature..................................................... 40°c.

•Time ............................................................. 10 to 12 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse one.

Sixth Step :- SOFT WASH

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. ..............480 litre.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/litre ..................... 288 Gms.

•Cationic softner @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 480 Gms.

•Time................................ 5 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Unload the garments to trolley.

Seventh Step :-Hydroextractor Machine

•Hydroextraction the garment to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Eighth Step :-Drying Machine

–Load 40 kg garments

–Set temperature ................ 75°c to 85°c.

–Time ......................... 35 to 40 mts.

–Time ..................... 10 minutes in cold dry.

Ninth Step :-Delivery

–After quality checking garment will be delivery.

BLEACH WASH

•A process of bleach wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Long Pant as mentioned below:-

First Step :- PRE-TREATMENT / DESIZING

•Batch size....................... 60 kg Denim Long Pant.

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 litres.

•Start the machine.

•Temperature.................... 60°c

•Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 324 gm.

•Add Detergent / Antistain @ 1 gm / litre..... 540 gm.

•Time................................ 15 to 25 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

Second Step :-HOT WASH

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 litres.

•Temperature....................................... 60°c.

•Time................................................... 5 mts.

Third Step :- BLEACHING

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 litres.

•Machine running.

•Add bleaching powder (k.c.i) @ 10 gm/litre..4800 Gms.

•Add soda ash @ 5 gm/litre ............................... 2400 Gms.

•Temperature............................................................ 60°c.

•Time (Depend upon the shade).................... 12 to 15 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse twice, each 3 minutes.

Fourth Step :- NEUTRAL WASH

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.......................... 540 litres.

•Add sodium hyposulphite @ 3 gm/litre ....... 1620 Gms.

•Temperature ......................................................... 40°c.

•Time (Depend upon the shade).............. 10 to 12 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse one.

Fifth Step :- SOFT WASH

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 litres.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm/litre ..................... 288 Gms.

•Cationic softner @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 480 Gms.

•Time................................ 5 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Unload the garments to trolley.

Sixth Step :-Hydroextractor Machine

•Hydroextraction  the garment to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Seventh Step :- Drying Machine :-

–Load 40 kg garments

–Set temperature ................ 75°c to 85°c.

–Time ......................... 35 to 40 mts.

–Time ..................... 10 minutes in cold dry.

Eighth Step :- Delivery

» After quality checking garment will be delivery.

                       DIFFERENT TYPES OF WASHING FAULTS

» Colour shade variation.

» Crease Marks.

» After wash hole.

» Very dark & very light.

» Bleach Spot.

» Bottom hem & course edge destroy.

» Running shading.

» Over blasting / low Blasting.

» Over grinding / low grinding.

» Bad smell due to poor neutralization.

» Poor hand feel.

» To high hairiness.

» Poor brightness.

» High or low affect / abrasion on garments.

» Spot on garments.

» Out of range / level of pH value of garments.

Super White wash

•Super white wash is done on the garments made from cotton grey fabrics. Due to this type of wash, the garments becomes extremely white.

Objects:

1. To make white the garments.

2. To achieve the buyer washing standard.

3. For soft feeling to wear the garments.

4. To remove size materials from the garments, etc.

The process of super white wash of batch of 60kg cotton grey fabrics is described below:

ü First step: Desizing

- Batch size: 60 kg cotton grey fabrics

- Water @ L:R: 1:8

- Machine running

- Temperature up to 90°C

- Add detergent@2%(OWF)

- Cold caustic soda@8% (OWF)

- Add Soda ash @ 5% (OWF)

- Hydrogen per oxide @ 12% (OWF)

- Stabilizer @ 5% (OWF)

- Time: 70minutes

- Drop the liquor

ü Second step: Bleaching

1. Add detergent @1% (OWF)

2. Add Caustic soda @ 3-4% (OWF)

3. Hydrogen per oxide @ 6-8% (OWF)

4. Stabilizer @ 2% (OWF)

5. Time: 45-60 minutes

6. Temperature: 90°C

ü Third step: Hot Wash

1. Temperature: 50°C- 80°C

2. Time: 5-10 minutes

3. Drop the liquor

ü Fourth step: Neutralization:

1. Add Acetic acid @ 1%

2. Time: 5-10 minutes

3. Cold wash

ü Fifth Step: Brightening

1. Add optical brightener agent @ 0.5-0.6%

2. Time: 5-10 minutes

ü Sixth step:

1. Add softener @ 0.5-1%

2. Time: 5-10 minutes

ü Seventh step: Hydroextractor

ü Eight step: Drying machine

1. Load 60kg garments to gas dryer

2. Machine running

3. Temperature: 75°C- 85°C

4. Time: 40 minutes in hot dryer

5. After then run 10 minutes in cold dryer.

ü Ninth step: Deliver

Tinting &Over dyeing

Tinting and over dyeing process is done after washingbut before softening. Normally after acid wash, stone wash with bleach or enzyme, stone wash, sand blasting, etc, process tinting and over dyeing is done. The fadedarea is normally over dyed with orange (bright color),yellow or similar hue and stone. Normally denimgarments are of blue color. When orange or yellow coloris placed is placed on the faded area, the garments looklike dirty but actually the garment is clean and new.Another color is again reused in the faded portion, this iscalled over dyeing.

Precautions to be taken in over dyeing and tinting

1. During fabric sewing low and high thread tension required. Otherwise irregular

dyeing effect happen but low tension more preferable.

2. Selection of interlining before garments dyeing.

ü The main recipe of tinting and over dyeing is given bellow:

1. L:R: 1:7

2. Dye: 0.01-0.05 % (Direct/Reactive)

3. Leveling agent: .05%

4. salt: 15-20 g/l

5. Soda ash: 10-15 g/l

6. Temp: 50°C- 70°C

7. Time: 1-2 hrs

The process of enzyme bleach wash with tinting is described below:

•Step 1: Desizing: Batch size: 60pcs

1. Water is added

2. Garments are loaded

3. Machine started

4. 500 gm Soda ash added

5. 500 gm Caustic soda added

6. 200 gm Bio. D added

7. Steam temp: 60°C

8. Process time: 25 minutes

9. Drop liquor

10. Two time wash

•Step 2: Enzyme wash:

1. Water added 400 liters

2. Machine running

3. 200 ml liquid, 400 gm powder type enzyme added

4. 150 ml Acetic acid added

5. 200 gm Anti Back staining agent added

6. 10 kg Pumice stone added

7. Temp: 50°C

8. Process time: 60 minutes

9. Drop liquor

•Step 4: Neutral wash

1. Water is added: 400 liters

2. Machine running

3. 500 gm Hypo sulphide added

4. Steam temp: 45°C

5. Process time: 10 minutes

6. Drop liquor

Step 5: Tinting

1. Water is added (400 liters)

2. Machine running

3. .02% Direct Brown GTL and .01% Direct Black V-200 added

4. 4kg salt is added

5. Steam temp: 70°C

6. Process time: 20 minutes

7. Check shade

8. Drop the liquor

Step 6: Drying

Ø APPROX. RATE FOR DIFFERENT TYPES OF WASHING (Varies)

•NORMAL WASH / GARMENT WASH

•Kids / Boy's item - us$ 0.70 - $ 1.25 / DOZ

•Adult item            - us$ 1.00 - $ 1.50 / DOZ

•PIGMENT WASH / CAUSTIC WASH

•Kids / Boy's item - us$ 1.00 - $ 1.50 / DOZ

•Adult item            - us$ 1.25 - $ 2.00 / DOZ

•SILICON WASH

•Kids / Boy's item - us$ 1.25 - $ 1.75 / DOZ

•Adult item            - us$ 1.50 - $ 2.00 / DOZ

•ENZYME WASH (TWILL/CANVAS/POPLIN/CORDREY/T.SHIRT)

•Kids / Boy's item - us$ 1.80 - $ 2.25 / DOZ

•Adult item            - us$ 2.25 - $ 2.75 / DOZ

•ENZYME WASH (DENIM)

•Kids / Boy's item - us$ 3.00 - $ 4.00 / DOZ

•Adult item            - us$ 3.50 - $ 5.00 / DOZ

•STONE ENZYME WASH (TWILL/CANVAS/POPLIN/CORDREY)

•Kids / Boy's item - us$ 2.00 - $ 2.50 / DOZ

•Adult item            - us$ 2.50 - $ 3.00 / DOZ

Ø APPROX. RATE FOR DIFFERENT TYPES OF WASHING (Varies)

STONE ENZYME WASH (DENIM)

•Kids / Boy's item - us$ 3.50 - $ 4.50 / DOZ

•Adult item            - us$ 4.00 - $ 6.00 / DOZ

ACID WASH

•Boy's item (Woven/Knit) - us$ 5.00 - $ 5.50 / DOZ

•Adult item             "          - us$ 6.00 - $ 7.00 / DOZ

•Sweeter item                     - us$ 7.00 - $ 8.00 / DOZ

STONE ENZYME + SAND BLASTING

•Boy's item (Twill/Canvas etc.) - us$ 5.00 - $ 6.00 / DOZ

•Boy's item (Denim)                    - us$ 5.50 - $ 6.50 / DOZ

•Adult item (Twill/Canvas etc.) - us$ 6.00 - $ 7.00 / DOZ

•Adult item (Denim)                    - us$ 7.00 - $ 8.00 / DOZ

STONE ENZYME + SAND BLASTING + TINTING

•Boy's item (Twill/Canvas/Denim etc.) - us$ 7.00 - $ 9.00 / DOZ

•Adult item (Twill/Canvas/Denim etc.) - us$ 8.50 - $ 10.00 / DOZ

STONE ENZYME + SAND BLASTING + GRINDDING

•Boy's item                     - us$ 7.00 - $ 9.00 / DOZ

•Adult item                     - us$ 8.00 - $ 10.00 / DOZ

Ø APPROX. RATE FOR DIFFERENT TYPES OF WASHING (Varies)

STONE ENZYME + SAND BLASTING + GRINDDING

•Boy's item                     - us$ 7.00 - $ 9.00 / DOZ

•Adult item                     - us$ 8.00 - $ 10.00 / DOZ

STONE ENZYME + SAND BLASTING + TAGGING + GRINDING

•Boy's item                     - us$ 8.00 - $ 10.00 / DOZ

•Adult item                     - us$ 9.00 - $ 12.00 / DOZ

STONE ENZYME + SAND BLASTING + WHICKERING

•Boy's item                     - us$ 7.00 - $ 9.00 / DOZ

•Adult item                     - us$ 8.00 - $ 10.00 / DOZ

STONE ENZYME + WHICKERING + PERMANENT CRINKLE

•Boy's item                     - us$ 10.00 - $ 12.00 / DOZ

•Adult item                     - us$ 12.00 - $ 13.00 / DOZ

STONE ENZYME + TAGGING + GRINDING

•Boy's item                     - us$ 7.00 - $ 8.00 / DOZ

•Adult item                     - us$ 8.00 - $ 9.00 / DOZ

WHAT TYPE OF MACHINE USED IN WASHING PLANT

§  Sample washing Machine (Horizontal / Vertical Type)

§  Washing Machine (Side loading)

§  Washing Machine (Front loading)

§  Hydro extractor Machine

§  Dryer Machine (Steam)

§  Dryer Machine (Gas)

§  Chemical Mixture Machine

§  Industrial Oven (Gas/Electric)

§  Boiler

§  Submersible Pump

§  Grinding Machine

§  Tagging Machine

§  Steam chamber for crinkle

§  E.T.P (Effluent Treatment Plant)

§  Generator

§  Sand Blasting Gun

§  Sand Blasting chamber

§  Spray gun and dummy

§  Screw compressor

§  Laser draw

v WHAT TYPES OF CHEMICAL USE IN WASHING PLANT

–Enzyme

–Detergent

–Acetic Acid

–Antistain

–Bleaching powder

–Sodium hyposulfite

–Caustic Soda

–Soda Ash

–Sodium Bicarbonate

–Potassium permanganate

–Cationic / nonionic Flax softener

–Micro Emulsion Silicon

–Salt (sodium chloride)

–Buffer

–Hydrogen peroxide

–Stabilizer

–Fixing agent

–Catanizer

–Optical Brightener

–Resin

–Sodium Metabisulphite

–Desizing agent

WHAT IS THE FUNCTION OF CHEMICALS IN TEXTILES

ENZYME : The action of enzyme during enzyme wash it hydrolysis the cellulose. At first it attacks the having projecting fibers and hydrolyzed them. Then it attacks the yarn portion inside fabric and party hydrolyzed the yarn portion. As a result color comes out from the yarn portion and faded affect is produced.

DETERGENT : Chemical character is fatty alcohol polyglycol ether in

an aqueous, glycolic solution. Detergent is widely applicable in the continuous and discontinuous pretreatment of all types of fiber and their blends. To remove impurities, mineral oil contamination and sizes

from the garments..

ACETIC ACID (CH3COOH) : Acetic Acid is used to neutralize the garments from alkaline condition and to control the pH value in wash bath.

ANTISTAIN :Antistain is used to prevent the staining on weft yarn of the denim (white yarn), white pockets of garment, levels, and contached fabrics of garment and increased the brightness of fabrics; it is also acts as anticreasing agent.

BLEACHING POWDER : Bleaching powder is an oxidizing agent. It is used in washing plant for colour out from the denim garments. We can achieve deferent shade of colour on garment i.e. Dark, Medium, Light shade.

SODIUM HYPOSULPHITE : Sodium hyposulphite is used to neutralize the garments from chlorine bleach.

CAUSTIC SODA : Caustic created the role in bleach technique with outcolour change the garment and has a good cleaning power. It is work as fadding affect/old looking affect come rapidly on garments.

SODA ASH : Soda ash creates alkaline medium for the breakdown of pigment dye. Soda ash help to uniform bleaching action on bleach bath. It has a cleaning power and help colourfaddingaffect of garment. It is used also for colour fixing in dye bath.

SODIUM BICARBONATE: Sodium bicarbonate is used in washing plant in the bleach bath with bleaching powder for Denim Light shade because easily colour out within shot time. As a result production increase and costing is low.

POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE : Potassium permanganate is used in Acid wash with Punic stone for colour out from the garments. It is used also spray chamber by nozzle for colour out (whitish affect) from the garments.

FLAX SOFTENER (Cationic, non ionic) : Softener is used to make the garments treated textiles a surface feel that is both sickly and soft and also provides excellent lubricating properties.

MICRO EMULSION SILICON : Amino Silicon is a textile finishing agent consisting mainly of amino modified silicon. When applied on fabrics, it gives durable softness, lubricity, elastic handle, antipilling, dimensional stability, tear resistance and fabric to be cut and sewn more easily allows and improving wear and easy care properties.

SODIUM CHLORIDE (SALT) : It helps to exhaust dye in to the fiber

BUFFER : Buffer is used in washing plant for pH control of enzyme bath, softener bath, desizing bath.

HYDROGEN PEROXIDE : Hydrogen peroxide creates the prime role in bleach wash technique. In alkaline medium, hydrogen peroxide breaks up and gives some perhydroxhyl ion, which discolour the colouring materials and as a result fadding affect is developed. Hydrogen peroxide is used in scouring, bleaching bath for white/ready for dyeing of gray fabric garments. It is used also neutralized the garment from alkaline condition.

STABILIZER : Hydrogen peroxide is work a good condition at temperature above 90°c, when temperature raise to 90°c then break the Hydrogen peroxide. Stabilizer is used to protect break the hydrogen peroxide and peroxide works in bath smoothly.

FIXING AGENT : Fixing agent is used for unfixed dye to fix on fabrics, when fabric colour will be proper fixing then colour fastness & rubbing fastness will be increased.

CATANIZER :Catanizer is used in pigment exhaust method processing. Pigment is colour not dyestuff. Pigment colours have no affinity to fabric when catanizer is used in fabric then increase the affinity between pigment colour& fabrics.

OPTICAL BRIGHTNESS : Two types of optical brightener are used in the

washing plant a) Red brightener. b) Blue brightener. Mainly optical brightener is used for improve the brightness of garments.

RESIN : Resin is high efficiency textile resin based on etherified dimethylol glyoxalin monoureine urea. Resin is used for the creation of semi-permanent creases indenim and other cellulose fabrics. It is used also cotton and polyester fabric. Fabric retains soft handle after  washing.

SODIUM METABISULPHITE : Sodium metabisulphite is used in the washing plant to neutralized the garment from potassium permanganate.

DESIZING AGENT : Desizing agent is used to remove mainly starches, cmc, waxes, fats pectin’s, minerals & unfixed indigo dye from denim, twills, poplin & canvas fabrics etc.

     SILICON WASH

Silicon washes generally doing on all type of fabrics i.e. Twill, Denim, Canvas, Knit, Corduroy. Silicon wash is required for the following

reasons:-

v It gives durable softness, elastic handle,

v It helps to antipilling affects, dimensional stability, tea resistance.

v It helps to fabrics to be cut and sewn more easily allows and improving wears and easy care properties.

The silicon washing  process  of batch of 60 kg Twill/Canvas/Poplin/Corduroy/Trouser is  described

below:-

First Step:  - Desizing

•Lotweight  (Approx 125 pes) ............ 60 kg.

•Add water @ L: R  = 1: 10..............  600 Litre

Machine  Running.

•Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 360 gm.

•Add Detergent @ 0.5 gm / litre.................... 300 gm.

•Temperature.......................... 50°c.

•Time...............................10- 20 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse one time 3 minutes.

Second Step :-

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 8 .............. 480  Litres.

•Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 288 gm.

•Cationic  Softner @  1 gm / litre..............  480 gm.

•Silicon (ME) @ 0.5 gm / litre ................ 240 gm.

•Temperature.......................... 40°c..

•Time................................  15 to 20 mts.

•Drain the bath.

Third Step: - Hydroextractor Machine

After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydroextractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments.

Fourth Step: - Drying Machine

–Load 60 kg garments to gas/steam dryer.

–Temperature set - 75°c to 85°c.

–Run about 35 to 45 mts.

–After run 10 to 15 minutes for cold dryer.

Fifth Step :-

•After dryer garment go to quality section for quality checking and then delivery.

v      Ultimate affect of Acid wash

During Acid wash, pumic stones are used. By the action ofpumic stones, irregular faddeng affect is developed on theheavy garments like denims, thick canvas/twill, and sweater. Thepumic stones act a brushing action on the garment fabricsurface. The area where more brushing action takes place theremore dicolour or fadding affect is developed and the areawhere less brushing action takes place less brushing actionand takes place less fading affect will be developed. Themulti-layer fabric areas likecollar, calf, pocket, placket, sideseam etc area will be brushed more than the single layer areas.As a result irregular fadding affect will be developed on thegarments fabric surface. Thus in this way fadding affect may bedeveloped on the garment by acid wash technique.

ACID WASH PROCESS

A processor  Acid wash of 60 kg batch  of Denim Trouser as mentioned below:-

First Step:  - Pretreatment/Desizing.

•Add water @ L : R = 1 : 10 .............. 600 litres.

•Start Machine.

•Add desizingagent  @ 1 gm/litre .................600 Gms.

•Add detergent  @ 1 gm/litre ........................  600 Gms.

•Temperature.............................  60°c.

•Time...........................  20 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Rinse one for 3 minutes (cold).

Second Step :- Hot wash

•Add water @ L: R  = 1: 10..............  600 litres.

•Temperature.............................  60°c.

•Time...........................  5 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Here hot wash is used to remove the adhering materials from the garment surface.

•Unload the garments  from the washing  m/c in the trolley.

•Load the pre treated garments in the  dryer m/c.

•Dry  the garment completely  & unload  the garments.

  The pumic stones used for acid wash need to pre-treat in the following chemical solution:-

•Water ..................... 100 L

•Potassium per manganate.............. 1000 Gms.

•Phosphoric Acid............................... 250 Gms.

•Stire the solution in a stainless steel tub with dry pumic stone.

•Soak the stones with the chemical solution ......... 10

15 minutes.

•The stones will pick up the solution. Then the soaked stones are dried in the open air

for.............. 2 to 3 hrs.

•Then pre-treated garment 30

–

40 kg per batch load in the dry washing machine.

•Load the per-treated stones (about 50 kg) in washing machine.

•Start machine running for each batch ........................ 7 to 10 mts.

•Stop machine running.

•Unload the treated garment separately. Pumic stones with P.P. solution hit on garment surface as a result fadding will be developed.

•Then load the stones treated garment in another washing machine.

Third Step :- Wash for cleaning

•Batch wt................................ 70 kg.

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 560 litres.

•Add detergent @ 1 gm/litre .............560 Gms.

•Temperature............................. 40°c - 50°c.

•Time ..................................10 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

•Here detergent is used to remove the breaking stone dust and chemicals from the garmentsurface.

Fourth Step :-Whitening/Neutralization.

•Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 560 litres.

•Machine running.

•Add Metabisulphite @ 5 gm/litre..... 2800 Gms.

•Cold temperature.

•Time 5 mts.

•Drop the liquor.

Fifth Step :-

ü Add water @ L: R = 1: 7.............. 490 litres.

ü Machine running.

ü Add Acetic acid @ 0.6 gm/litre ..................... 294 Gms.

ü Add Softner @ 1 gm/litre ........................ 490 Gms.

ü Then unload the garments.

Sixth Step :-Hydro extractor machine.

•Hydro extractor machine to remove excess water from the garments.

Seventh Step :-Dryer machine.

•After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying m/c for complete drying.

Eighth Step :-Quality & Delivery.

•After drying the garments go to quality checking & rectify washing fault and then good onedelivery. 

o Precaution:

Ø Maintain the stock solution properly constant when comes socking the stone.

Ø No water licks age in to the machine when treated pumic stone & garments in to the machine.

Ø Not excess load the garments in the Acid wash processing.

Ø Add some new stone after finishing on batch to maintain the volume for 2nd batch. It is a mater of experience.

Ø Colour Shade Variation & Solution

Ø When fabrics come in to garment factory against any order from abroad / local fabric dyeing factory, its found different colour shade roll in the same colour i.e. slide light, slide dark, slide tone different for this reason garment factory to control shade variation works as follows :-

Ø 8"×8" size fabric cut from every roll.

Ø Marking roll number by permanent marking pen at back side of cutpes.

Ø Every cutpes joint each other and make a blanket.

Ø Then it washes into standard approval shade.

Ø Garment factory now segregate same colour tone in one bundle and shade grading A.B.C.D.

Ø First A shade roll cutting by pattern then B.C.D shade separately.

Ø After garment making shade level attached on body.

Ø Then go to washing plant for standard washing.

Ø Washing plant shade level wise washing in respective wash.

Ø After wash it any big shade variation found then again rewash to match with buyer approval standard.

Ø Final quality checking garment go to finishing section for thread cutting, button attached, iron &poley etc.

ü     Sand Blasting

Popular dry process.A mechanical process.Aluminumoxide (Al02)3 used which looks like SAND. Sand blasting is performed with combine the wash like normal Wash, Stone-enzyme, Enzyme, Bleach wash etc.

vWashing Process on Denim/Canvas/Twill garments

(Alo2)3 is very fine & very hard/Sharp. Aluminum oxides (Al02)3 through by GUN with dry air to perform blasting action. The Gun has a switch to start & stop the flow. The garments to be sand blasting are placed on the bed of a close chamber. Garments are faded by frictional affect of (Alo2)3. (Alo2)3 flow is done at 10 -20angles. Operators should have protective masks, gloves, Helmet, earflap, uniform. After mechanical fading, chemicals treatment are required.

Whisker:

• To make whisker first, Buyer’s given design is plotted on a tracing paper. Then from the tracing paper the design is transferred to the ply-wood or gas kit.

•The next step is to place foam rubber according to the design on ply wood with the help of solution gum.

•Finally, the upper surface of the rubber is grinded to a slope or spherical shape and the whisker pattern is prepared.

•Now this pattern is entered through the front opening of the pant and rubbing is done by emery paper at 320 ppm to 500 ppm. Thus the effect produced on the pant is called whisker

•It may require more or less than 3 efforts to make whisker pattern to make buyer’s design accurately.

                   Fig: 3-D Whisker

Hand scrapping:

•To create the impression or visibility of pocketing fabric or any inside materials visibility to the face of the jeans pants with the help of emery paper scrapping is called hand scraping. It is used as the alternatives of sand blasting in some cases

Fig: Hand Scrapping.

v PP Spray( Potasium per manganate spray):

ü PP Spray (KMnO4: Potassium per Manganate Spray)

ü 10 g KMnO4 in 1 litre

ü 0r + Lubricant 1%•

ü 5 g KMnO4 in 1 litre

ü For pp spray, the garments are placed in a cabinet. ThenKMnO4 solution is sprayed according to the requirement.

ü After spraying the garments look grayish brown.

ü Then it is neutralized with oxalic acid (COOH-COOH). Finally,faded (white) effect is produced.

Caution:

    The worker must put on mask and hand gloves.

    There must have back glass fountain system to avoidspreading of KMnO4 in air.

    It is never done on grey garments. The garments must bedesized before spraying.

Fig: PP-Spray room

Fig: PP-Spray after neutralization

Grinding tools: It is usually done in the edge side of the pocket, legs etc.

Nano finish:

Nano process of applying resin and fluro-carbons. It is also a permanent chemical process. Following are the nano finish advantages:

1.Water, oil and alcohol repellency but air permeability.

2. The crease resistance feature keep clothing neat.

3. Dye fastness can be improved and wet increases.

4. It also helps to improve resilience, handle and drapping properties of the fabric.

Recipe:

•Wetting agent: 0.5-1 % on the wt of the goods.

•Resin: 4-6 % owf

•Softener: 2-3 % owf    (non ionic)

•Fluoro carbon: 4-6 %

Wrinkle free:

•This process is one kind of resin finishing process. In this process of applying resins on the textile material that they cross linked with the amorphous block the free (-OH) that prevent the hydrogen bond formation and thus improve the wrinkle free finishing.

•Mainly it is applied on twill fabrics, single jersey, and Denim fabric.

ü Some advantages:

•Improve resistance and recovery to creasing by wrinkle free process.

• Good water repellency and moderately soil repellency and remove of soil by washing can be achieved by wrinkle free process.

•Resin improves resilience, handle and draping properties of fabric.

• Improve wet and dye fastness.

ü Recipe:

•Wetting agent: 0.5 % on the weight of the fabric.

•resin: 6-10 %                        ,,

•Softener: 3-5 %                       ,,

•Then make 60-80 liter liquor put in the machine tank.

Fig:Destroy

Fig: Tacking

Product package:

•It is also known as Technical package and Merchandisers Detailed sheet.It contains:

ü Style number of the garments.

ü Item description of the garments.

ü Design/Specifications of the garments.

ü Measurement list of the garment.

ü Color of the garments.

ü Color combination of the garments.

ü Size of the garments.

ü Packing Instruction of the garments.

ü Folding instruction of the garment.

ü Types of sewing thread used.

ü Instruction for care label.

ü Types of the fabric used and weight of thatfabric.

ü Composition and contribution of that fabric.

  Some Buyers condition about the Ph

Ø American Eagle: 6.8-8.0

Ø V.F.A: 5.5-8.0

Ø LEVIS: 5.0-9.0

Ø SEARS: 6.0-8.0

Ø J.C.P: 5.0-9.0

Ø H&M: 4.5-7.5

Ø AMC: 6.0-8.0

Ø GAP: 6.0-8.0

Garments Dyeing

Garments dyeing is a new technology forus but it is actually using in the Europeancountry for last 70 years. Popularity of garments dyeing is increasing in France,Italy, Spain, Germany, Canada, NorthAmerica, Turkey, Israil, South Africa,JaPAN, USA and Uk etc. The garmentswhich are dyed in garments dyeingtechniques are as follows:

o   Active wear.

o   Jeans item.

o   Panty-hose.

o   Shirt.

o   Slacks.

o   Terry items.

o   Dresses.

o   Leisurewear.

o   Pullover.

o   Skirt.

o   Socks.

o   Sweater.

ü Advantages of the garment dyeing:

–Comparatively lower cost of production for any item of any color and shade.

–Comparatively less time is required to produce and supply the garments.

–No possibility of shade variation with in the garments.

–Small lots of different item could be produced at lower cost with in the less time.

–Old garments could be redyed, hence becomes look new garment.

– Desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, and finishing could be done in the same machine.

–Comparatively lower capital investment cost to set up a garment dyeing project.

–In some cases, lower liquor ratio in garment dyeing requires lower water, steam, and chemical consumption, hence lower garment dyeing cost.

– During fabric cutting approximately 15 % fabric is cut out as wastage, if this 15 % fabric is cut out as grey fabric rather than colored fabric, then the wastage cost will be saved.

vPrecautions to be taken before garments dyeing:

–Garments design should be made from engineering point of view.

–If garment is made after Desizing, scouring and bleaching of grey fabrics and then dyed in garments form, then the possibility of problems will be reduced.

–If possible, garments should be made from the grey fabrics of the same lot and same source.

–The seams should not be too tight or too loose especially in the areas containing elastic like waistband, cuff etc which may create irregular dye penetration resulting irregular dyeing.

– The garments which are produced from woven and knittedfabrics combindly, the knit fabric should be preshrunk;otherwise seam pucker may develop after garments dyeing.

–If the garment fabric is of mixed fibers, during garments dyeing, dye selection should be done carefully, having equal dye pick up to avoid irregular dyeing.

--Poor quality metals should not be used as accessories in the garments, which may be damaged during dyeing by the action of salt and alkali. If any metal component is used in the garment should be made from nickel and its alloy.

–Sewing thread used for making the garments should be of same fiber like the garment fabric, otherwise color difference may occur between the garment fabric and sewing thread.

– Button used in the garment should be selected carefully.Button made from casin, cellulose, nylon etc. may bedamaged during garments dyeing but PET button is saved in this respect.

–If elastic is used in the garments and the elastic is made from the natural rubber or polyurethane fiber like Lycra may create problem during garments dyeing. To avoid such problem dye should be selected tobe copper free. During bleaching, polyurethane fibers may be damaged by the chlorine. PET type electrometric fiber is Safe in per oxide bleaching.

–Interlining is used in the most garments. Only those interlinings should be used in the garments to be dyed only recommended for the garment dyeing. Otherwise the performance of interlining may be destroyed.

–The garments made from compactly woven cotton fabric should be dyed with hot brand reactive dyes; otherwise problem of irregular dye penetration may occur.

–For some specific color, if specific dyes are used then the dyeing cost will be lower. For example, navy blue and black color could be produced in the garments by using sulpher dyes at lower cost.

–Presence of mineral impurities in the cotton fibers may vary which may impede the stability of the peroxide liquor during bleaching with hydrogen peroxide; even insoluble compounds may form during hydrogen peroxide bleaching. Those insoluble compounds may redeposit on the garments fabric, special chemicals are available to avoid such problem.

– Crease marks may develop in the cotton garments during dyeing. To avoid such problem, special chemicals like “Imacol brand” may be used.

    Basic theory of garment dyeing:

•Depending on the wet fastness requirement of the fabrics, garments made from the cotton grey fabric are mainly dyed with direct dyes and reactive dyes. For low color fastness direct dyes are used and for high color fastness reactive dyes are used for cotton garments dyeing. If the cotton garments are dyed with reactive dyes then two types of reactive dyes are available in the market, namely:

•Hot brand reactive dyes.

•Cold brand reactive dyes.

•Among those two brands of reactive dyes, hot brand reactive dyes are commonly used for cotton garments dyeing. Because cotton garments dyeing with hot brand dyes facilitates easier and quicker dyeing process with reasonably good dyeing quality.

  Basic principle of garments dyeing with hot brand reactive dyes:

ü Cotton garments may be dyed with hot brand reactive dyes as per following line diagram of basic dyeing principle:

1.     80 c 5m (dye add 15m)  15-30 mins (alkali 15m) (30-60) mins

2.     Rapid temp. Rise   80 c 70°c

3.     Hot water

4.     Salt+lubricant+sequestering agent (ph-7)

5.     Drop the liquor

ü At first load hot water in the dye bath and add salt, lubricant, sequestering agent and maintain liquor ph at 7. Then load garments in the dye bath and start machine running. Raise the temperature of the dye bath to 80°c with in 30mins. After 5 mins at 80°c, add dye solution in the dye bath with in 15 mins time. Continue dyeing for 30 mins after dye addition in the liquor. Then add alkali to the dye liquor slowly with in 15 mins. After alkali addition, continue dyeing process for 30-60 mins. At the end reduce liquor temperature to 70°c and then drop the liquor

ü After completion of dyeing, the garments are to be washed thoroughly at 40°c to 45°c for 5 mins to remove the unfixed dyes from the garments fabric surface. Then drop the liquor, again wash the garments only with the normal water for 5 mins to clean the garments again. At the end of the dyeing cycle, softener may be applied on the garments to improve the softness properties of the garments.

v      Special chemicals for garments dyeing:

•Use of special chemicals and dyesbecome essential for garments dyeing. Because the use of special chemicals and dyes facilities additional advantages as well as saves accessories from risk of damage present in the garments. For example, zipper used in the garment may be protected from corrosion during  garments dyeing by the use of special chemicals.

•Pretreatments of garments made from cotton greyfabrics prior to dyeing are very important because good pretreatment means half dyeing is completed. Normally pretreatment means Desizing; bacterial alpha amylase base Desizing agent provides better performance asbecause stability of enzyme activity is not affected by the variation of temperature and ph. normally at 70°c, ph 6- 7.5, 60 mins processing is enough for satisfactory Desizing. Use of high temperature reduces processing time. Use of nonionic wetting agent in the bath improves Desizing effect. Water hardness helps in stability of Desizing agents. Biolase, Bactosol, etc are the example of some of such Desizing agents.After Desizing of garments made from cotton grey fabric

•needs scouring and bleaching treatments to removenatural impurities present in the cotton fibers such as fats, waxes, pectins, pectose, ash, mineral organic

compounds and coloring substances. During scouring and bleaching those impurities are removed from the cotton fibre. If those removed impurities forms insoluble compounds and suspended in the liquor, may redeposit on the garments fabric surface resulting color spot in the garment fabric after dyeing. To avoid such problemspecial chemicals like Sandopan LFW or sirrix A.K. liquidmay be used.

•Metal compound containing copper, iron, etc can destroythe bleaching performance. Presence of aluminum may be damaged by the action of the alkali. To avoid the problems of metals, during chemical treatment, Sandoclear 8160 or Sandopan SF liquid may be used. During bleaching of cotton/nylon blended fabric, nylonfibre may be damaged by the action of peroxidebleaching agent. If Lanalbin PA powder is used during peroxide bleaching then the nylon fibers will be unaffected by the bleaching agent. During hydrogen peroxide bleaching, stabilizer AWN of sandoze can be used which is better as stabilizer for hydrogen peroxide;moreover it has some detergency power and softness handle property.

•To avoid the problem of crease marks formation duringwet treatment, imacol brand as lubricant may be used in the chemical bath. Cotton fibres in garments form may be cataionised bysanden 8425 liquid @ 3% before garments dyeing to develop new color effect in the garments. During garments dyeing, some areas of the garments like collar, cuff, pocket and seam areas may be irregularly dyed due to interruption of dye penetration in those areas. To avoid the risk of irregular dyeing, leveling agent may be used in the bath. Drimagen E2R of clariant company if used in the dye bath, such types of problem can be avoided.