garments joining

JOINING

Introduction:

The process  which have been developed as alternative to sewing are known as alternative methods of joining. Three methods are used instead of sewing, these are:

1.      Welding

2.      Adhesive

3.      Moulding

4.      Fusing

1.                                    Welding:

Welding is the process of garment manufacturing which involve the sealing together of thermoplastic materials but the heat is not applied externally.

Basic procedure of the method:

Heat applied on the fabric

                                            Melting of thermoplastic materials

                                               Applying pressure on melted material

                                                     Creation of bonding

                                                            Cooling

 

                                                         Fabric joined

Amount of heat generation depends on:

ü  Amplitude of frequency.

ü  Frequency.

ü  Pressure.

ü  Time of frequency.

Advantages:

ü  Water cannot penetrate into seam or joining.

Disadvantages:

ü  Used in less costly garment.

ü  Used in the fabric where amount of thermoplastic is 65%.

Uses:

Ø  Sealing of edges of seams and fabrics.

Ø  Shaping of different component of garments.

Ø  Production of different component of garments.

Ø  Produce button hole.

Ø  Cutting and sealing of length of ribbons.

Ø  Attaching motif of the garment.

Ø  In water proofing seams.

2.      Adhesive:

The term adhesive is used to mean a substance which is sticky in the conventional sense of the word. But it is used for joining the fabric.

Types of Adhesive:

                                       I.      A coating of thin adhesive film on silicon paper which is transferred to the fabric and the plies of the fabrics become joined.

                                    II.      A material which melts on applying heat and helps in joining the fabrics.

Applications:

v  The use of an adhesive thread as one of the looper threads which can be sewn in to the edge neatening of the hem.

v  Used for water proof garments.

v  Another use of adhesive is in seams which will take no stain.

Difference between Welding and Adhesive methods:

Welding	Adhesive
The fabric is to be welded must contain at least 65% thermoplastic fiber.	Adhesive method is used when the amount of thermoplastic fiber is less than 65%.
No extra material is used.	Extra material like p.v.c. coating, PTFE used for fabric joining.
No external heat is applied.	External heat is applied.
Used in hems mostly.	Used in edge neatening, top corners of patch pockets, water proofing, etc.

3.            Moulding:

By moulding method the required definite shape of garments is found without creating seam.

 

Basic procedure of the method:

                                          

                          The desired shape by shrinkage

                                             Heat apply

                      Thermoplastic fiber in fabric become soften

                                               Cooling

                                            Desired shape

Difference between Sewing method and Alternative method of Joining:

           

Sewing method	Alternative method
Fabrics are joined by needle and thread.	Fabrics are joined either by adhesive or by melting polymeric material in fabrics.
Fabric remains flexible along the seam line.	Fabric becomes stiff and harsh along the seam line.
Comfortable to wear.	Uncomfortable to wear.
Seam with higher strength.	Comparatively lower seam strength.
Fabric can be joined quickly.	Joining is comparatively lower speed.
Re sewing is possible due to any defects.	Re joining is not possible due to any defect.
Seam is not water proof.	Seam is water proof.
Most common method.	It use is limited.